Great Bedwyn and Backwards

Arriving at Great Bedwyn on Saturday morning we struggled to moor alongside the reeds. Resorting to the gang plank to bridge us and the towpath we strived to get Inky to use it (her legs are far too long for such acrobatics) and lost our nice rubber doormat which we had balanced on the gangplank into the depths of the canal in the process. The midday sun was burning away our patience. Returning to the tiller we thought we’d have to bypass Great Bedwyn’s delights but only a short non-visible distance away was a standard mooring on the towpath – oh, the relief. Feeling refreshed later in the afternoon we followed the guide book’s advice and found the Cross Keys pub in order to secure a dinner date for later that evening. A warm welcome, a traditional interior, a beer garden, a keen enthusiasm to cater for our vegan diet and: bring your own dog. The chef would use our own ‘cheese’ on his stone baked pizzas – we had a date for a meal in Heaven and were not disappointed!

We had been advised by a chap living in a house parallel to the towpath that there was to be a fund raising event held at his house in the evening to raise money for the local church which had been stripped of the lead from its roof two years previously. (That sort of criminal activity always sounds like an Alec Guinness and George Cole film script). We were most welcome to attend (tickets purchased to cover BBQ) and there would be live music in the form of a pianist. Alternatively (he so rightly observed) we could listen to the live music by default for free. This we obviously did on return from our date at the pub and what a talent the pianist was, entertaining us well into the balmy evening in our collapsible camping chairs dowsing ourselves with chilly lager.

The following day we went in search of the post office which had a former life as a stone mason’s and was adorned with curious stonemasonry art from powder blue painted angel headstones to chiseled epitaphs. How fortunate that Mr Higgs’ name rhymed with his occupation in order to secure an enduring tombstone limerick. And wasn’t he a busy person. Far too Sweeny Todd for our liking of course. 

From Great Bedwyn we retraced our steps back to Aldermaston as Mark had celebrations to attend and Inky and I stayed in Frouds Bridge Marina together for a week. Here the weather cooled to provide respite from July’s tabasco heat. Many visitors came to see us and you must too as Frouds Bridge is a lovely marina – so relaxed. It’s snug on an island all of its own and Bill in his smashing hat will welcome you like you’ve always been around. They have solar heated showers from tubes on the roof and this is a welcome free facility to anyone on water rations: ain’t that the truth sailor.

Thanks to Liveaboards Donna, Mark (and Inky) for writing and giving us permission to publish this.